This is a BRAND NEW Highest Quality 1/4" Gauge HEAVY WEIGHT (HV) Industrial Sewing Machine Double French Seam Feller Folder.
This Highest Quality Folder will fit Double Needle Lockstitch or Chainstitch Machines. This folder can be mounted onto the included slide plate or can be screwed onto an existing plate.
The 1/4" size designation refers to the NEEDLE GAUGE. This means that this Folder is designed to work on a Double Needle Machine with 1/4" Between the Needles.
This Lap Seam Folder is called SINGER STYLE and is generally used on Brother, Juki, and Singer style machines BUT it can be used on ANY machine
There are 4 different weights:
MEDIUM: for very light fabrics like nylon rip-stop or light apparel applications.
MEDIUM HEAVY: for more general sewing on most woven fabrics and common apparel applications like cotton pants.
HEAVY: for Heavy Apparel applications like corduroy pants, light to medium denim, light to medium canvas products, and light to medium weight awnings.
EXTRA HEAVY: for the heaviest industrial applications like tarps, tents, heavy canvas products, heavy awnings, and very heavy denim.
The only real difference between the SINGER style and the UNION SPECIAL style is the mounting holes for the SINGER are directly in front of the needles and the UNION SPECIAL style mounting holes are to the right of the needles.
There can be slight differences in the physical appearance of the same type folder because different factories make them slightly differently.
For UNION SPECIAL or KANSAI style lap seam folders, see our other items.
This attachment makes the inseam, seat or side seams on blue jeans. It is also used for hot air balloons, parachute seams, awnings, inflatable jumping jim, canvas products, sails, tent seams, ETC.
These types of LAP SEAM or FRENCH SEAM FOLDERS are usually hand made and cost Hundreds of Dollars!
** Some of our friends have emailed us asking "How on earth do you make these folders work?" **
I remember the first time I tried to use one of these. I tried for 2 days and just could NOT do it. It was impossible! UNTIL an experienced operator showed me exactly how to do it.
It would take me about an hour to explain so here is the short version.
Make sure that the folder is mounted as close as possible to the presser foot WITHOUT touching it.
The LEFT side material edge must be manipulated with your left hand back and forth (from your belly to the needle) while pushing the material to the right. This will fold the left side UP into the folder. Now hold the left side in this position and do not allow it to fall out. Now take the RIGHT side with your right hand and again move it back and forth (from your belly to the needle) while pushing it to the LEFT. This will fold the right side DOWN and interlock it with the already positioned left side.
Now push the left side with your left hand and the right side with your right hand back and forth TOGETHER while maintaining their positions in the folder. The goal is to have the top leading edges (closest to the needles) of both sides even and interlocked.
Now move the even and interlocked left and right pieces so that the leading edges are just even with the needles. Now drop your foot and lower the needles into the fabric. WOW, what a relief! This is the hardest part. Now you have the left and right sides interlocked and held in place by the needles. Quick! Make one or two stitches before the whole thing falls apart.
At this point you are "SET UP" You have both sides interlocked and you also have one or two stitches holding the entire mess together. Now it is time to think BIG. Do not try to sew an inch or two at a time while pushing both sides into the folder. This method will drive you crazy!
Instead, reach back from the folder about 8 to 10 inches and grab both sides in a pinching manner where their edges meet so that you can twist both edges in a counter-clockwise spiral.
What the heck does that mean? Well just go back 8 to 10 inches from the folder right about where your belly is. Have both pieces, left and right, touching edge to edge, and lying flat, with no space between the edges and no overlap either. With your right hand straddle the point where the edges meet with your thumb and pointing finger. Keep your thumb and pointing finger about one inch apart.
Now you are ready to "PINCH" the two pieces together. This is critical. Pull your fingers together and the two sides will rise up together off of the table with both edges even and pointing upward and pinched in your fingers.
This is your "RUN". You will now sew this length. Just twist the pinched edges to the left (counter-clockwise) at least 1/4 turn. Don't worry about over turning. The folder will not allow you to. But if you do not turn the pinched edges enough, the folder will not fold them in a proper LAP SEAM.
So you will first "SET UP" as described above with one or two stitches locking both sides in the interlocked position. THEN you will select a "RUN" of about 10 inches and roll both edges to the left. Then do another "RUN" and ANOTHER. After a while it actually gets easy! A really good factory operator will "RUN" 24" to 30" or an entire pantleg!